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What to Cook This Week - The New York Times

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What to Cook This Week - The New York Times

What to Cook This Week - The New York Times

Posted: 12 Jul 2020 07:30 AM PDT

Good morning. I remember Sundays before all this happened, the chores-and-errands giddiness of them, all the menu planning for the week to come, the slow slide into an afternoon of cooking things in advance or cooking just to cook. It was pleasurable labor, so different from the grind of the workweek, and if my inbox was any indication, it was a joy I shared with many of you.

Not so much, now. Some are out of work and grieving for a life diminished. Others are working through the weekends, the distinction between on the job and off erased. Still more are exhausted by the relentless onslaught of news and opinion, loneliness and family, duty and anxiety, the coronavirus itself. It's hard, what we're experiencing. What good is it for me to recommend you bake a lazy sonker today, and eat it on the couch after dinner?

Still, I do so. Still, I cook. We need to cook, after all, to nourish ourselves and those around us. We need to cook to feel better, to make others feel better, to get along. I may begin the process in weariness, but as often as not I end it in surprise and triumph, happy at least to have made something delicious, to have shared it with those with whom I shelter.

So, today, give it a try even if you're weary and irritable. If you have access to the outside and a grill, maybe you could muster a summer barbecue? Or, if not, an oven-roasted chicken shawarma? (No to the oven on this summer day? Try cold chickpea-tahini soup.)

On Monday, maybe an arugula salad with peaches, goat cheese and basil? Or these creamy white beans with herb oil?

Tuesday is Bastille Day and you might make something out of Melissa Clark's terrific collection of recipes, "The New Essentials of French Cooking." (Weeknight omelet for the win.)

Wednesday might be nice for a homemade version of the lox bowl (above) served at Shalom Japan, Sawako Okochi and Aaron Israel's restaurant in Brooklyn. (I once cooked with them in their apartment and spent a pleasant few hours talking orchids and pancakes while we worked. It makes me sad to think how long it may be before we can do that kind of thing again.)

On Thursday, perhaps Marcella Hazan's Bolognese? If that's too much for a weeknight in summer, there's always her plain tomato sauce, which is the best tomato sauce there is. (I use it sometimes on pan pizza.)

Then, at the end of the week: Maybe burgers for everyone — take your pick — and some sweet potato oven fries, before a dessert of mango royale? Or Angela Dimayuga's coconut milk chicken adobo, with rice and her bibingka to follow? Cook's choice!

There are thousands and thousands and thousands of other recipes to cook this week awaiting you on NYT Cooking, though you'll need a subscription to access all of them. (If you don't have one yet, I hope you will think about subscribing today. Your subscription supports our work.)

And we are standing by to help if anything goes wrong along the way, either with your cooking or our technology. Just write: cookingcare@nytimes.com. Someone will get back to you, I promise. (If not, yell at me: foodeditor@nytimes.com.)

Now, it's nothing to do with persimmons or crabs, but you should read Amanda Hess on the Chicks, who you may remember as the Dixie Chicks, in The Times.

Also in The Times, do make some time for "The Decameron Project," 29 short stories written in response to the pandemic.

Finally, to play us off, here's Khaled, "Aicha," live in 2007. Pure beauty. I'll be back on Monday.

14 Recipes to Cook With Your Dad Over Zoom - Grub Street

Posted: 17 Jun 2020 12:00 AM PDT

Photo: Cultura/Getty Images

For those who live near their families, Father's Day is an excuse to go home and celebrate dads for all the things they do best — washing the car, having a beer on the porch, not knowing how to shop for groceries. But for many, going home won't be in the cards this year, as social-distancing guidelines have kept us in social bubbles and from seeing one another. That doesn't mean you can't cook together, though. You'll just have to do (most of) it over, say, Zoom or FaceTime, pan-frying your pork chops or grit cakes together, and making some martinis during the downtime. Here are 14 ideas to get you started.

Jubilee's Smothered Pork Chops
 Toni Tipton Marie's Jubilee, a compendium of African-American cooking, is rich with recipes you'll want to make staples: the barbecue shrimp, the red beans and rice, the Island banana bread. But you're in need of one fit for a celebration, so look no further than the smothered pork chops: pan-fried chops swimming in a thick, rich roux punctuated with capers and lemon juice and zest.

Zaitoun's Slow-Roast Lamb Shoulder
A showstopper from Yasmin Khan's Palestinian cookbook, slow-roasted until it becomes so tender you can pull it like pork, with a crusty, dark skin courtesy of the pomegranate molasses. You'll have to start marinating it the day before and then roast it four hours — so your Zoom might be more about the sides — but you'll have leftovers for sandwiches for days, so the tradeoff is clear.

Maangchi's L.A.-style Kalbi
Maybe you have a Grill Dad. Maybe you are tired of making the same burgers with him, but you've spent the last few months mostly inside, and are now looking for any excuse to be outside. If you're so lucky to have a grill, then bring the Korean barbecue back home, with a recipe from Maangchi — Youtube's queen of food — for kalbi, the tantalizingly sweet marinated short rib. Plus, she's got plenty of recipes for sides, if you want to make a spread.

Bryant Terry's Spinach and Kale Grit Cakes
There are plenty of recipes to love from the vegan chef Bryant Terry, whose latest cookbook, Vegetable Kingdom, includes this one for spinach and kale grit cakes. The greens get puréed and added to grit cakes that are fried, and served with a cashew-cream based sauce punched up with homemade Creole seasoning.

Superiority Burger's New Creation
Were you planning on bringing home a spread from New York's favorite veggie-burger place? Do the next best thing, and cook one of Brooks Headley's recipes from the Superiority Burger cookbook: The veggie burger itself is a bit of a challenge (unless you're a more experienced cook), so try a simpler dish like the New Creation, a riff on the Philly cheesesteak that's made with yuba and much better than its inspiration.

Bryan Ford's Semitas de Yema
Maybe your dad has exhausted all of his quarantine baking projects (the sourdough croissants, the Chinese flatbreads, the banana bread). Consider baking a recipe from Bryan Ford's New World Sourdough — a book all about the naturally leavened breads of the Americas — like his semitas de yema, a semi-sweet Honduran bread made for dipping.

Andrea Nguyen's Banh Xeo
Vietnamese Food Any Day has become a staple cookbook in my own home, as a guide to cooking the cuisine casually and regularly. There are plenty of recipes to love from the book, but one that sounds out is the bánh xèo, the rice crepes that you wrap in lettuce and herbs and dunk into dipping sauce. It's exciting food without being quite as much of a commitment as other dishes that'll give you that celebratory feeling.

Hainan Chicken Rice
Hailing from the island of Hainan, and popular from sweltering Singapore to streamy Malaysia, Hainan chicken rice is an ideal summer dish: The poached chicken is served room temperature, with fat-slicked rice cooked in the gingery poaching liquids, and, for this recipe, a dipping sauce of green chile, garlic, ginger, and calamansi. (Should calamansi be too difficult to find, you can try a different sauce recipe.)

Pierre Thiam's Chicken Yassa
Chicken yassa is one of those dishes you eat and never forget about. It's a relatively simple dish, though there are plenty of variations, which makes it a good option if you want to be able to take it easy while cooking "together." For the Teranga chef Pierre Thiam's recipe, the chicken is first marinated in citrus, then grilled or cooked in a cast-iron pan, and finally braised in caramelized onions that have been invigorated with bell pepper, white-hot Scotch bonnet pepper, garlic, ginger, and, if you'd like, mustard. (If you're unable to access Thiam's recipe, also available in his cookbook Yolele!, here's another from Saveur.)

Nik Sharma's Dosa
Perhaps you made a mental note of it when food writer and author Nik Sharma published a detailed article about making dosas at home, back in the sourdough days of March, that it was time to polish your dosa skills. If you'd been waiting, now is the time. Sharma's primer on the South Indian rice pancake comes complete with food science and a bit of encouragement for dosas amateurs: "Do not despair, the first one or two dosas are always a disaster in my kitchen."

King Arthur's Cheesy Pan Pizza
Maybe you celebrate Father's Day with an annual pizza night, but you don't have a pizza oven. Or maybe you just saw your friends Instagramming a particularly good looking pizza earlier during quarantine. This recipe comes from the people behind King Arthur, who rest assured know dough, and is pretty dead simple: you don't even have to knead the dough, so there's plenty of time for catching up.

Guelaguetza's Tamales With Mole Negro
Maybe you and your dad are big fans of the great Los Angeles restaurant Guelaguetza. Maybe you both just get a real kick out of tamales. The restaurant is famous for its moles, one of which, mole negro, makes it into these tamales, which are wrapped in banana leaves before getting steamed. Tamales are something families make together — why not over video?

Reem Kassis and Michael Solomonov's Knafeh
Should your pops be a phyllo fanatic, maybe you should take the sweet road with writer Reem Kassis and chef Michael Solomonov and make knafeh, the sweet cheese pie made from phyllo that's soaked in a rose and orange blossom syrup.

Stella Parks's Ice Cream Pie
It's ice-cream season, and this ice-cream pie from BraveTart author Stella Parks is a perfect project: The crust doesn't require any baking, and the ice cream doesn't even need to be churned. Plus, you'll both get your own pie.

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Cooking: An ode to olives and a twist on tapenade - The Mercury News

Posted: 13 Jul 2020 06:50 AM PDT

When the weather is hot, and it's too stifling to cook or move, this salty, briny olive concoction will hit the spot. It's called olivada. Similar to tapenade, minus the anchovies, the star ingredient is, you guessed it, olives — three kinds of olives, in fact.

While using just one type of olive would be acceptable, a combination provides more complexity, yielding a balance of intensity, salt, bitterness and fruit. The simple list of ingredients rounds out with toasted pine nuts, garlic and lemon, winding up with a salty, sharp and addictive condiment that's surprisingly versatile. Simply spread olivada on baguette slices or crostini, or sprinkle it over salads, pasta and pizzas. It's also a delicious accompaniment or topping to grilled fish and vegetables.

The three types of olives in this recipe are my tried-and-true combination. If you know your olives, you might want to experiment with mixing different kinds, but I think you'll like the recipe with the following olives.

Oil-cured olives: Yes, you need these. You've likely seen them — the inky, shriveled, prune-like olives, sometimes dusted with dried herbs and dry-packed. These wizened black olives are dry-cured in salt and then soaked in oil, which concentrates their flavor to a salty, bitter intensity. They add an essential concentrated olive flavor that anchors this recipe.

Castelvetrano olives: At the other end of the olive spectrum is the Castelvetrano. If you are on the fence about eating olives, then this is the olive for you. These plump green olives are delightfully fruity, mildly salty and tame in flavor. They smooth out the intensity of the oil-cured olives and punctuate the olivada with speckles of bright green.

Kalamata olives: These medium-sized, purple-black, brine-cured olives are everyone's darling — pleasantly salty, meaty and fruity at once, yet never overpowering. They are delicious eaten on their own, strewn in salads, or folded into recipes requiring the subtle salty kick of olives. Kalamatas strike the middle ground in this recipe, binding the strength of the oil-cured olive to the sweet and mild Castelvetrano.

Olivada

Makes about 1¾ cups

Ingredients

¼ cup pine nuts

1 cup oil-cured olives, about 5 ounces, pitted

1 cup pitted Kalamata olives, about 4 ounces

1 cup pitted Castelvetrano olives, about 4 ounces

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Dry toast the pine nuts in a small skillet until golden brown. Transfer to a plate to cool.

Combine the pine nuts and all of the remaining ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to finely chop, without making a paste.

Transfer the olivada to a glass jar or container and refrigerate for at least one hour to let the flavors develop. Serve at room temperature. Store the olivada in the refrigerator for up to 5 days (the flavors will mellow over time).

Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer.

Dallas Chefs Share Personal Recipes for Cookbook Benefiting Addiction Recovery - Dallas Observer

Posted: 13 Jul 2020 02:00 AM PDT

For the last six years, Dallas chefs have gathered to cook and share plates with guests as part of the Dallas All-Star Chef Classic. The event would raise thousands for the Dallas 24 Hour Club, which works to provide safe, sober, transitional living for homeless individuals seeking sobriety.

As the novel coronavirus changes all our plans, the organization is pivoting to a new direction: a cookbook.

Cooking at Home: A Collection of Recipes Created by Dallas' Top Chefs from Their Home to Yours, includes recipes from chefs for people to make at home.

The intention was for these to be meals professionals make at home for themselves and family members, so expect approachable and relatable recipes that are also informative and useful.

Chefs involved in the effort include Anastacia Quiñones-Pittman (José), Abraham Salum (Salum Restaurant), Janice Provost (Parigi), Stephan Pyles (Stephan Pyles Concepts), Eric Dreyer (Ellie's Restaurant & Lounge) and Uno Immanivong (Red Stix Asian Street Food).

"I think we [chefs] really have to narrow our focus on what's important to us because we could be doing something every day," Pyles says. "…drug and alcohol addiction is so rampant in the restaurant industry that it just makes sense to really support efforts to help 12-step recovery and anything that might work to correct the situation."

The cookbook is on presale now, with shipments starting Nov. 1.

The cookbook is on presale now, with shipments starting Nov. 1.

courtesy of the Dallas 24 Hour Club

If not for the coronavirus, chefs could've supported the programs by cooking food for guests in the seventh year of the Dallas All-Star Classic, which raises money to cover the critical needs of the organization's residents (shelter, food, clothing, toiletries, etc.).

"When COVID-19 hit, our Chef Classic Team wisely thought it best to not hold the event, which typically hosts over 800 guests," says Marsha Williamson, CEO of Dallas 24 Hour Club. "In our brainstorming session about what to do instead, our communications and development director Adrienne Santaularia said, 'Why not produce a cookbook? We already have the top chefs in Dallas supporting us, and they could provide the 'Cooking at Home' recipes for everyone to enjoy.' It was a natural pivot for us to still align with our chef and food theme and a great creative way to raise these critical funds."

A silver lining is that you can experience the dishes for more than one night and learn from some of the city's best chefs.

"I love the theme of this cookbook because it showcases the love we give to our own families. Cooking at Home will give the reader a chance to peek into our dining rooms — one recipe at a time," Quiñones-Pittman said in a release. "I am honored to support The 24 and serve as honorary chef chair for this project because the work they provide to those seeking recovery from addiction is so needed."

It's needed regularly, but as stresses of the season mount, the 24 Hour Club is seeing even more people suffering from substance abuse.

Presales of the book are live now, and copies will ship Nov. 1. Cost is $43 per book, with discounts for bulk orders of 20 or more copies. There are more donation levels are available, with different levels including multiple, autographed copies of the book, a dinner for six prepared by one of the chefs and recognition in the cookbook.

Taylor Adams has written about the restaurant industry for the Dallas Observer since 2016. Now the Observer's food editor, she attended Southern Methodist University before covering local news at The Dallas Morning News.